There’s something so satisfying about watching an amaryllis grow. You start with this big, unassuming bulb, check on it while you’re making coffee, and suddenly there’s a flower stalk reaching toward the window. Then those blooms open, and one little pot becomes the prettiest thing in the room.
If you brought home an amaryllis from Pretty Wild Farm, here’s how to get it settled in and enjoy it well beyond its first flowers.
Start with the right pot
If yours is already planted, you can skip ahead to watering.
For a loose bulb, choose a pot with or without drainage hole(s). Having a drainage hole can sometimes be easier to drain out excess water if you pour a little too much. You can also use a simple pot liner and place it into a fancier, more decorative pot. Find a pot that’s about 1–2 inches wider than the bulb. It doesn’t need a lot of extra room. A sturdy pot helps keep everything steady once the flowers get tall. Amaryllis stems are usually about sixteen to twenty-four inches tall— yeah, they put on quite the show and oh gosh, I can’t wait for you to experience it!
Let’s break down the simple steps to getting your bulb potted up:
This is optional, but I like to add horticultural charcoal and small pebbles or rocks to the bottom of my pot. This helps with drainage and helps to control stagnation if any water pools at the bottom of the pot.
Add fresh potting mix. It is critical that you are using fresh potting mix so that you know the soil is clean, healthy and free of any harmful organisms that can infect your soil and bulb. I personally use a few different types of organic soils from PRO-MIX.
Position the bulb with the roots facing down, and fill soil in around it. Leave the upper third to half of the bulb sticking up above the soil.
Water it thoroughly, then let the extra water drain out. If you’re using a decorative outer pot, check that water isn’t collecting inside it.
Give it warmth and light
A warm spot around 70–75°F is good for getting your bulb started. Once you see growth, give it a bright, sunny window. It doesn’t need direct sunlight but it needs ample light so the flower stalk grows well and produces beautiful blooms.
As the stalk grows, turn the pot regularly to help it stay straight. If it starts leaning, you can add a small stake for support.
When the flowers open, you can move it out of the bright, sunny window and somewhere a little cooler to help them last longer.
Check the soil before you water
After the first watering, let the potting mix dry somewhat before watering again. Feel the soil instead of following a set schedule—your home’s temperature and light will affect how quickly it dries.
You want some moisture without keeping everything soggy. Always let excess water drain away rather than leaving the pot sitting in it. Too much moisture can cause the bulb and roots to rot.
When should you expect flowers?
Many amaryllis bloom around 6–8 weeks after planting, but the timing varies. For example, Peruvian amaryllis (ie. Picasso, Double King varieties) will typically bloom in time for the Thanksgiving and Christimas holidays if you start them early enough and give them all the proper conditions. The Dutch amaryllis typically take 8 to 12 week to bloom under their preferred conditions. Some examples of Dutch amaryllis varieties are Bogota, Exotic Star and Fairy Tale. The variety, temperature, and how far along your bulb is when you bring it home all make a difference and are all variables to consider for bloom timing.
If you’re hoping for flowers on a particular date, give yourself some flexibility. They don’t all grow at the same pace.
When the flowers are finished
You don’t have to throw your amaryllis away after it blooms. The bulb can continue to produce flowers year after year with proper care.
Snip off individual flowers as they fade. Once the flower stalk turns yellow or brown, cut it back a few inches above the bulb.
Be sure to keep the healthy green leaves intact, even though the flowers are gone. Those leaves help the bulb build up energy for future blooms. Give it bright light, continue watering as needed. For a quick nutrient boost, use a complete organic liquid fertilizer according to the label while it’s actively growing.
Can you put it outside?
Here in Montgomery, you can move your potted amaryllis outside once the danger of frost has passed. Start it in shade or indirect light and introduce it to brighter conditions gradually. Please avoid direct sun for any extended amount of time if you are in a growing climate similar to mine (Southeast Texas, Zone 9a), because it is just too hot and your plant will likely burn.
Keeping it in a pot makes it easier to bring into shelter when freezing weather returns. However, amaryllis do perennialize well in and around the Montgomery, TX are because our winters are so mild. If it does freeze, you can protect them with a frost blanket (using the correct frost protection is very important —another topic for another post) or let them die back naturally and re-emerge in late Winter or very early Spring.
There’s no need to make it go dormant right after the flowers fade. For now, let those leaves grow and help the bulb recover. Getting another round of flowers depends on the energy it stores and the care it receives afterward.
Have a question about yours?
If you bought your amaryllis from Pretty Wild Farm and aren’t sure how it’s doing, send me a photo and tell me what’s going on. I’m happy to help. Also, if your amaryllis are looking great, snap some photos and tag @prettywildfarm on Facebook or Instagram or email them over to me so that I can share in your excitement with you.
I want you to enjoy those flowers—and feel confident growing them again and again.
Hope you make room for something pretty.
♡ Jen
Pretty Wild Farm
Start with the right pot
If yours is already planted, you can skip ahead to watering.
For a loose bulb, choose a pot with or without drainage hole(s). Having a drainage hole can sometimes be easier to drain out excess water if you pour a little too much. You can also use a simple pot liner and place it into a fancier, more decorative pot. Find a pot that’s about 1–2 inches wider than the bulb. It doesn’t need a lot of extra room. A sturdy pot helps keep everything steady once the flowers get tall. Amaryllis stems are usually about sixteen to twenty-four inches tall— yeah, they put on quite the show and oh gosh, I can’t wait for you to experience it!
Let’s break down the simple steps to getting your bulb potted up:
This is optional, but I like to add horticultural charcoal and small pebbles or rocks to the bottom of my pot. This helps with drainage and helps to control stagnation if any water pools at the bottom of the pot.
Add fresh potting mix. It is critical that you are using fresh potting mix so that you know the soil is clean, healthy and free of any harmful organisms that can infect your soil and bulb. I personally use a few different types of organic soils from PRO-MIX.
Position the bulb with the roots facing down, and fill soil in around it. Leave the upper third to half of the bulb sticking up above the soil.
Water it thoroughly, then let the extra water drain out. If you’re using a decorative outer pot, check that water isn’t collecting inside it.
Give it warmth and light
A warm spot around 70–75°F is good for getting your bulb started. Once you see growth, give it a bright, sunny window. It doesn’t need direct sunlight but it needs ample light so the flower stalk grows well and produces beautiful blooms.
As the stalk grows, turn the pot regularly to help it stay straight. If it starts leaning, you can add a small stake for support.
When the flowers open, you can move it out of the bright, sunny window and somewhere a little cooler to help them last longer.
Check the soil before you water
After the first watering, let the potting mix dry somewhat before watering again. Feel the soil instead of following a set schedule—your home’s temperature and light will affect how quickly it dries.
You want some moisture without keeping everything soggy. Always let excess water drain away rather than leaving the pot sitting in it. Too much moisture can cause the bulb and roots to rot.
When should you expect flowers?
Many amaryllis bloom around 6–8 weeks after planting, but the timing varies. For example, Peruvian amaryllis (ie. Picasso, Double King varieties) will typically bloom in time for the Thanksgiving and Christimas holidays if you start them early enough and give them all the proper conditions. The Dutch amaryllis typically take 8 to 12 week to bloom under their preferred conditions. Some examples of Dutch amaryllis varieties are Bogota, Exotic Star and Fairy Tale. The variety, temperature, and how far along your bulb is when you bring it home all make a difference and are all variables to consider for bloom timing.
If you’re hoping for flowers on a particular date, give yourself some flexibility. They don’t all grow at the same pace.
When the flowers are finished
You don’t have to throw your amaryllis away after it blooms. The bulb can continue to produce flowers year after year with proper care.
Snip off individual flowers as they fade. Once the flower stalk turns yellow or brown, cut it back a few inches above the bulb.
Be sure to keep the healthy green leaves intact, even though the flowers are gone. Those leaves help the bulb build up energy for future blooms. Give it bright light, continue watering as needed. For a quick nutrient boost, use a complete organic liquid fertilizer according to the label while it’s actively growing.
Can you put it outside?
Here in Montgomery, you can move your potted amaryllis outside once the danger of frost has passed. Start it in shade or indirect light and introduce it to brighter conditions gradually. Please avoid direct sun for any extended amount of time if you are in a growing climate similar to mine (Southeast Texas, Zone 9a), because it is just too hot and your plant will likely burn.
Keeping it in a pot makes it easier to bring into shelter when freezing weather returns. However, amaryllis do perennialize well in and around the Montgomery, TX are because our winters are so mild. If it does freeze, you can protect them with a frost blanket (using the correct frost protection is very important —another topic for another post) or let them die back naturally and re-emerge in late Winter or very early Spring.
There’s no need to make it go dormant right after the flowers fade. For now, let those leaves grow and help the bulb recover. Getting another round of flowers depends on the energy it stores and the care it receives afterward.
Have a question about yours?
If you bought your amaryllis from Pretty Wild Farm and aren’t sure how it’s doing, send me a photo and tell me what’s going on. I’m happy to help. Also, if your amaryllis are looking great, snap some photos and tag @prettywildfarm on Facebook or Instagram or email them over to me so that I can share in your excitement with you.
I want you to enjoy those flowers—and feel confident growing them again and again.
Hope you make room for something pretty.
♡ Jen
Pretty Wild Farm
